Shida Kartli sits on the road between Tbilisi and Kutaisi, and almost everyone crossing the country east to west passes through. They stop at two places, about two thousand years apart.
What to see
Uplistsikhe — a cave town in the cliff above the Kura, cut around the first millennium BC. Halls, streets and a theatre carved into the rock.
Gori and the Stalin Museum — opened in 1957, with the house where he was born and his personal carriage.
Gori fortress — on the hill in the centre of town.
Ateni Sioni — a 7th-century church in a gorge south of Gori, with 11th-century frescoes.
Getting there
About an hour from Tbilisi by motorway to Gori, then twenty minutes more to Uplistsikhe. The region is almost always seen on the way to Borjomi or Kutaisi.
When to go
All year. There is no shade at all at Uplistsikhe, so in summer go before noon or towards evening. In winter everything is open and far quieter.
A ready week with one base and four day trips. You unpack once, everything worth seeing is within three hours, and the seventh day is deliberately left empty. Here is why, and how to reshape it if you fly into Kutaisi.