Svaneti is high country in the north-west where nearly every village has stone family towers. A tower was home, store and stronghold at once: livestock below, family above, narrow slits facing out. They were built not against a foreign enemy but against neighbours — the region lived by its own laws for centuries, blood feuds included.
Hence the look of these villages: a dozen stone verticals out of a slope with no planning at all.
What to see
Mestia — the main settlement, dozens of towers in the village itself.
The museum of history and ethnography — medieval icons and embossed crosses from village churches.
Ushguli — a cluster of villages below Shkhara, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Hatsvali — a cable car and a viewing point looking at Ushba.
Mazeri — the valley below the twin-headed Ushba, where glacier routes begin.
Getting there
Mestia is four to five hours by mountain road from Kutaisi or Zugdidi. Mestia has a small airport with flights from Tbilisi and Kutaisi, but weather cancels them often and they should not be the only plan.
When to go
June to September: the road to Ushguli is open and the trails are clear. In winter the Hatsvali slope runs, but the upper villages become hard to reach.
A country you can drive across in a day, where four hours take you from the beach to a glacier. And where a week covers about a quarter of what you planned. A breakdown by region: what to see, how many days it honestly takes, and where people miscalculate.