Mtskheta was the capital of Iberia for more than seven hundred years and remains the spiritual centre of the country: this is where Georgia adopted Christianity in the early 4th century, and where kings were crowned and buried for centuries afterwards.
The town is small, and that defines it: everything worth seeing fits into a couple of hours on foot, and Tbilisi is twenty minutes away. So Mtskheta is almost always half a day rather than a trip of its own.
What to see
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral — 11th century, built on the site of the country’s first Christian church. Frescoes and royal tombs survive inside.
Jvari Monastery — 6th century, on a hilltop above the meeting of the two rivers. The church is tiny, but it stands where the whole valley can see it.
Samtavro Monastery — a convent where King Mirian and Queen Nana, under whom the country converted, are buried.
The streets around the cathedral — souvenir stalls, churchkhela, homemade wine from locals. Haggling is expected.
Getting there
Twenty to thirty minutes by car from Tbilisi. Minibuses run from Didube metro, but Jvari is the catch: it stands on a hill away from the town, and walking there is long and along the verge. A transfer is simpler, or include Mtskheta in a Military Road trip, which is what most people do.
When to go
All year. In summer the middle of the day at Jvari is hot and thick with coaches, so go up before eleven. In winter the hill often gives the clearest view of the valley, with far fewer people.
No ready-made tour yet, but we will put one together
Tell us when you are going and who with, and we will come back with a route and a price. A real person who knows these roads does the working out, not a calculator. No prepayment.
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