Kakheti is the wine-making east, and "wine-making" does not mean here what it means in France. Wine is made in qvevri: clay vessels holding several hundred litres, buried up to the neck. The grapes go in whole, skins and stems included, and stay for months. The method is on the UNESCO intangible heritage list and remains ordinary working practice at hundreds of estates.
What to see
Sighnaghi — a walled town on a hill above the Alazani valley.
Bodbe Monastery — a 9th-century convent and the burial place of Saint Nino.
Telavi and the Tsinandali estate — the regional centre and a 19th-century cellar.
The valley wineries — from large plants to family marani with a dozen qvevri.
David Gareja Monastery — a 6th-century cave complex on the Azerbaijani border.
Getting there
An hour and a half to two from Tbilisi to Telavi or Sighnaghi. Moving around without a car is hard: the estates are scattered with almost no transport between them. If the day involves tasting, driving is off the table — you need a transfer or a driver.
When to go
September and October bring rtveli, when every estate is working and family ones let you join the picking. Spring is in blossom and quieter. Summer is hot, and some smaller estates close until spring.
No ready-made tour yet, but we will put one together
Tell us when you are going and who with, and we will come back with a route and a price. A real person who knows these roads does the working out, not a calculator. No prepayment.
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